Evonik's New Skin Microbiome Model Enables Realistic Lab Testing

Evonik's Lab Model Decodes How Cosmetics Impact Skin Microbiome

Evonik has developed a groundbreaking skin microbiome model that, for the first time, allows scientists to rigorously assess the impact of cosmetic ingredients and products on skin microbes under controlled laboratory conditions. The company is currently testing its own cosmetic ingredients to provide evidence-based claims about their microbiome compatibility. With consumers and manufacturers increasingly demanding scientific validation of cosmetic effects, Evonik's data also paves the way for developing even more advanced skincare ingredients.

The skin microbiome—the collective community of bacteria, fungi, and viruses on the skin—varies from person to person and is influenced by numerous internal and external factors, from diet to sun exposure. Different bacterial classes dominate distinct skin zones, which can be characterized as oily, moist, or dry.

"Many modern cosmetics market themselves as 'microbiome-friendly,'" says Stefan Pelzer, who leads microbiome research at Evonik. "But the tests currently used simply can't capture the full complexity of the skin microbiome." Typically, these assessments only examine how cosmetic ingredients affect individual bacterial species, ignoring the intricate interactions between microorganisms.

Evonik's new model changes that by focusing precisely on these interactions in the lab. The approach involves co-cultivating eight to ten representative skin microbes, creating conditions where multiple bacterial species can grow and interact—a key advantage of the innovative method.

The model measures changes in biomass and microbial diversity, comparing cultures with and without the test substance. A standardized evaluation matrix then classifies the ingredient as "microbiome-promoting," "microbiome-friendly," "microbiome-altering," or "microbiome-disruptive." Any significant reduction in bacterial diversity is considered negative, as the skin microbiome's protective function depends on a natural balance of microorganisms.

The microbial communities grow in microtiter plates—standardized containers that allow up to 48 individual samples to be analyzed simultaneously, delivering quantifiable results more efficiently and affordably than previous methods. "This model bridges the gap between simplistic, less informative in vitro tests and complex in vivo studies on human volunteers," Pelzer explains.

Beyond the balanced-skin model, Pelzer's team has already developed a version for acne-prone skin. Additional models are being created in collaboration with cosmetic industry partners, while efforts to further increase complexity are underway. Future advancements could include combining bacterial co-cultures with tissue and cell culture models, since microorganisms interact not only with each other but also with skin cells, as Pelzer notes.

These scientific insights hold major market relevance. Experts estimate global retail sales of cosmetics and personal care products will reach around $460 billion this year, rising to approximately $580 billion by 2027. Evidence-based efficacy claims are becoming decisive in this growth. A recent study shows that half of younger consumers research ingredients and product benefits in detail before purchasing.

Evonik consolidates its initiatives in this field through its Biotech Hub and Skin Institute. The Biotech Hub unites the company's expertise in biotechnology, including deep knowledge of complex biological systems like the gut and skin microbiomes, as well as biotechnological production processes. Around 150 employees at sites in Hanau, Halle (Westphalia), and Shanghai work to develop sustainable biotech solutions—Evonik's so-called Biosolutions—for healthier lives and a healthier planet.

The Skin Institute, founded in 2023, operates as a network of laboratories in Singapore, India, Spain, and Germany with a core mission: to substantiate dermatocosmetic claims for Evonik's existing and future cosmetics portfolio. Dermatocosmetics refers to skincare products containing active ingredients that deliver well-defined, scientifically proven benefits to the skin. A claim articulates these benefits—a performance promise used to market the products.